The city was still dark when I walked down to the river. We were on the return end of the trip — a week on the Canal de Bourgogne behind us, and a few days in Paris to give the canal its proper context before flying home. We were staying in a hotel in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, its balcony looking directly up at the structure; Paris has a long personal history for Mary and me, and the tower is part of that history in a particular way. This time in the city was the unhurried version — mornings with nowhere mandatory to be, evenings at restaurants chosen for the food rather than the view. But the river called.
I had a plan: the barges moored along the quays, the working boats that give the Seine its particular gravity, included in a composition with the tower on the eastern side of the Pont d'Iéna. The angles and distances defeated the plan — the moored boats wouldn't re-arrange themselves and the light wasn't cooperating with what I had in mind. So I let it go, turned east, and let the morning decide.
This is what it offered. The stone quays were still in darkness, the bridges holding the empty sky in their arches, the river surface already receiving light while nothing on the bank was ready for it. The color shifted in minutes: deep blue to slate to silver to the first pale gold before the Haussmann rooflines had cleared the sun. The Seine in that window — between full dark and full day — belongs to no one in particular. The plan I'd arrived with was gone, and what replaced it was better.
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From the river to the esplanade above it: the Trocadéro esplanade at dawn — the same morning light from above the river.
The other side of the same bridge, the same morning: the Eiffel Tower from the opposite side of the Pont d'Iéna.
The tower that gives Paris its particular gravity, in the visual language of 1889: the Eiffel Tower in monochrome — Paris as Niépce might have seen it.
